Day 1: Torquay to Lorne (55 km, feels longer because of the hills)
Start early from Bells Beach (yes, the surf one). The official Great Ocean Walk also starts here so you share the carpark with hikers. First 20 km are gentle along the surf coast, then the road kicks up into the Otway ranges. Aireys Inlet lighthouse is perfect for coffee stop, the cafe there does decent flat white. After Split Point the real climbing starts, nothing crazy but constant rollers. When you finally drop down into Lorne you’ll smell the ocean again and feel like a hero. Wild camping is tricky around here (too many houses), but there’s a nice free campsite just behind the football oval if you ask locals nicely, or pay showers at the caravan park 5 AUD.
Day 2: Lorne to Apollo Bay (48 km, the prettiest day)
This is the section everyone posts on instagram. Road hugs the cliffs, waves crash below, koalas literally sit in trees 3 meters from your handlebar (I counted 27 that day). Stop at every lookout, you won’t regret it. Teddy’s Lookout above Lorne is worth the 2 km detour. The climb out of Wye River is the steepest of the whole trip (12% for almost 1 km), but then it’s mostly downhill or flat to Apollo Bay. Stock up on food here, big supermarket, bakery with killer vanilla slice. Free camping at Skenes Creek or pay site in town.
Day 3: Apollo Bay to Princetown (92 km, the long one)
Longest day and probably the hardest because of headwind. First half still in rainforest, super lush, tree ferns everywhere. Then around Castle Cove the landscape suddenly opens and you’re riding through farmland with ocean on the left. If the wind is from southwest (it usually is) you’ll be crying by lunchtime. The Twelve Apostles visitor centre has a cafe at km 85, expensive but life-saving. Princetown has a basic campsite right by the river, 10 AUD, hot showers, and the pub across the road does massive parmas. Koalas here are so chilled they sometimes fall out of trees (happened in front of me, poor guy was fine).
Day 4: Princetown to Port Campbell (18 km, recovery day)
Short ride just to reposition. You pass the actual Twelve Apostles at sunrise, almost no tourists yet, magical with the mist. Then Gibson Steps, Loch Ard Gorge, The Arch, London Bridge, all within 15 km. Take your time, have breakfast at one of the lookouts. Port Campbell has a proper supermarket again and a backpacker hostel with cheap dorm beds if you want a real bed for once.
Day 5: Port Campbell to Peterborough (30 km, more limestone madness)
Bay of Islands, The Grotto, Childers Cove, you get the idea. The road is flatter here but the wind usually stronger. Wild camping possible at tiny beaches if you carry water. Peterborough has a small shop and a caravan park with grass sites right by the beach.
Day 6: Peterborough back to Port Campbell or continue to Warrnambool (50 km if you finish in Port Campbell by train)
Most people finish at the Apostles but if you want to ride the whole official Great Ocean Road you continue to Allansford. I turned around in Peterborough because the last 50 km to Warrnambool are pretty boring (just farmland). Train back to Melbourne from Warrnambool is easy, bikes go free but book the spot in advance.
Quick tips & checklist (stuff I wish someone told me)
Water: carry at least 5 liters between Apollo Bay and Princetown, taps are rare
Wind: almost always from southwest, start early
Koalas: they look cute but don’t touch, they can be nasty
Camping: most caravan parks charge 30-45 AUD for unpowered site, but there’s always free spots if you’re discreet
Flies: November is bad, bring a head net or you’ll go crazy
Phone signal: almost none between Lorne and Apollo Bay, download offline maps
Bike: 35-40 mm tires minimum, the road is good but chipseal eats narrow tires
Best time: October to April, winter is cold and very wet
If you only do one coastal ride in your life, make it this one. The ocean never gets boring, the koalas are basically guaranteed, and those cliffs at sunset… yeah, just go.
Happy pedaling!
